Stays (pattern and cutting)

Last Friday, I started making the stays, after I enlarged the pattern.
I made a mock-up of the unaltered pattern, as it seemed almost right!


The gap on my back was too large and the tabs were just a little too high in the waist, so I had to alter the pattern, as expected. I ripped out of the mock-up haha :P


I was too lazy to add bones, the measurements could be done without them too...
If the final stays are not like they're supposed to be, I will take that back and make a proper mock-up the next time, hehe.

I laid out the pattern pieces on the table and cut them horizontally at the waist.
There had to be 3 cm extra for the tabs to be at the right place.


Unfortunately I found out that I had to redraft (almost) the whole thing, because when I shifted the pieces, the boning channels didn't match any more...
2 cm was added at the back at the lacing holes, some redrafting followed again.

I laid some transparant paper on top of the pattern (taped together) and drafted the new pattern on top of the old one. You can see the 3 cm gap at the waist.

The pieces were cut in three layers: pure dupioni silk, coutil and a stiff cotton.