Stays (binding in progress)

I'm currently busy with hand (for the most part) binding my stays.
It's a lot of work, but it pays off :)
The binding will be pressed afterwards, so it'll look less wonky.

Here some pictures:

Stays (binding finished)

After making some horribly small bias binding, I finally made a decision what to do next.
I wanted to save some fabric (because I have other plans for the same colour) so I had to order new fabric for more bias binding.

I thought "hey, if I am to order new fabric for binding, why not a contrasting colour?". I couldn't decide on the colour (white and crème somehow seemed ugly) and couldn't wait so long for the fabric to arrive anyway :P
So I did use the rest of the fabric after all. I'll order more if it's really necessary

The bigger new tape maker was put to good use. I even cut the fabric 5mm wider than it should have been. That was a good idea! It wasn't too wide at all... After sewing the strips together and looooooots of ironing, the binding is done!

My tip for today: always cut your binding wider than you want too :P

5 meters of silk dupioni binding finished

Stays (boning finished!)

I finally finished measuring, cutting, filing and dipping all the bones :)
It took a long time, I know.

The spring steel was filed with a dremel tool and dipped with white nail polish.
Hm I should buy myself some plastidip some time.

And let's not forget the busk!
The busk was cut and carved out of a thick plate of plastic (thanks again, dad!!!)
Does the job very well and ofcourse it fits perfectly!

The boned stays with the white plastic busk on top

Now on to making my own bias tape!

Stays (boning)

The boning is starting to work on my nerves!
It's taking forever and I don't seem to have enough boning.
I have some in another size, fortunately the difference is very small.

Well, the boning is mixed up now anyway, so I'm using both :)

The tabs and back are now boned, so now on to the front!

Stays (basting and boning channels)

Last week I sewed together all three layers.
First the dupioni and coutil layers were basted at the edge to prevent shifting and after that, the layer was sewn to the cotton lining.

All layers sewn together

I was afraid when stitching the boning channels, the layers would shift, so I basted them again, spread over the fabric.
I now have sewn all the boning channels.

Lots of straight stitching: all boning channels finished!

So now the boning, binding and eyelets are left!

Stays (pattern and cutting)

Last Friday, I started making the stays, after I enlarged the pattern.
I made a mock-up of the unaltered pattern, as it seemed almost right!


The gap on my back was too large and the tabs were just a little too high in the waist, so I had to alter the pattern, as expected. I ripped out of the mock-up haha :P


I was too lazy to add bones, the measurements could be done without them too...
If the final stays are not like they're supposed to be, I will take that back and make a proper mock-up the next time, hehe.

I laid out the pattern pieces on the table and cut them horizontally at the waist.
There had to be 3 cm extra for the tabs to be at the right place.


Unfortunately I found out that I had to redraft (almost) the whole thing, because when I shifted the pieces, the boning channels didn't match any more...
2 cm was added at the back at the lacing holes, some redrafting followed again.

I laid some transparant paper on top of the pattern (taped together) and drafted the new pattern on top of the old one. You can see the 3 cm gap at the waist.

The pieces were cut in three layers: pure dupioni silk, coutil and a stiff cotton.